The italian job
Massimo Bizzocchi, president of the traditional tailor's house Kiton once declared, "A good suit is like a good cigar", and he couldn't be more right. The making of an authentic Italian suit involves complex processes that are no less meticulous than the making of a premium, hand-rolled cigar. "You have to make sure it is rolled properly. You can call a cigar a cigar, but unless it's truly by hand, it's not a real cigar." The same goes for clothing, Bizzocchi says. "You've got to keep the fibre alive." What Bizzocchi is referring to is the way in which a cutter rolls the individual pieces of a garment together before it is sent for 25 hours of tailoring.
For one thing, there's always a reason to start anything to do with men's fashion in Italy _ the country with one of the strongest fashion industries in the world; where menswear transcends mere clothes, and takes in the diverse lifestyle, history and heritage. Who wouldn't be interested in all those tailors who once served as family tailors for regional mafia clans, before finding immense success in delivering all those details and heritage into modern fashion and eventually becoming the biggest fashion empires in the world?
One can witness the grandeur of Italian style in all those superbrands but not many know that in almost every corner of big Italian towns like Florence, Rome and Milan lie those small tailor shops where the traditional technique of making an authentic Italian suit, passed on from one generation to another, has been secretly guarded. It's these tailors who have forged the unique Italian style that men all over the world have fallen in love with, be it the Kiton and Brioni suits, or Ermenegildo Zegna to milliners' like Borsalino, shoes and leather gloves.
In the old days, when the topic of tailor-made apparel was raised, the comparison with London's Savile Row was inevitable. The Italians, however, boast several advantages. Many Italian tailors' brands originate from family textile businesses in various towns in the region of Lombardy, of which Milan is the capital. Hence, the development of tailoring and textile technology has long progressed in parallel.
If Savile Row views suit tailoring as art, Milan sees it as applied art which can be developed into a commercial business. In this sense, Italian fashion was able to move seamlessly from traditional craftsmanship into national style, and then, industry, without the awkward stumbling that led to the cultural revolution epitomised in punk rock. (Think Sherlock Holmes goes Vivienne Westwood!
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The making of an authentic Italian suit involves complex processes that are no less meticulous than the making of a premium, hand-rolled cigar. "You have to make sure it is rolled properly. You can call a cigar a cigar, but unless it's truly by hand,
“There is a movement afoot by the Premium Cigar Association, people who make hand-rolled cigars as opposed to machine-made, trying to get an exemption for themselves from FDA law,” Beckwith explained. “I think all cigars are exempted to a certain
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